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How Sweet It Is! A Look Into Vermont’s Sweetest & Oldest Agricultural Tradition

photo by Cookie Steponaitis Sam Cutting IV stands in front of the new Dakin Farm production and office building in Ferrisburgh.

Tuesday February 26, 2013

By Cookie Steponaitis

    It snowed again last night! The light fluffy flakes are known as sugar snow that ushers in the spring season and the time when Vermont’s trees run thick with sap that makes the sweetest and oldest of crops, maple syrup. While last year’s maple crop was far from normal and with the temperatures reaching a landmark 80 degrees shutting down the season weeks early Vermont’s production was only two-thirds of a normal year. However, this year looks to be a good one and all over the state the producers are gearing up for the age old practice of tapping trees.

    While the tradition is old the technology is far from that. Spending time with Dakin Farm co- owner Sam Cutting IV takes the observer into the world of maple production and the reasons why 2011, 2012 and 2013 will go down in agricultural history as turning points in the industry.  “Changes in technology allow the maple industry to produce twice as much as ten years ago,” shared Sam Cutting. “Technology in the form of vacuum pumps and flow tap systems allow the trees to be tapped longer and more efficiently. While I am not certain of the exact number, I believe about one-half of Vermont farmers are supplementing their income with maple syrup production.”

    With the production of more crop than can possibly be sold to Vermonters and tourists, Vermont maple growers and producers find themselves in the position of having to market globally. One interesting road block for the Vermont made product has been the world wide system for grading syrup that doesn’t match up to the Vermont system. “Ironically there are five grades in the international system of syrup and in America there was the Vermont system and the New York system,” remarked Sam Cutting IV. “When customers would order from other nations they would not understand the Vermont system and sometimes would be disappointed with the product because it did not match the type of syrup they were expecting.”

    Grappling with all of these issues and the continuing changes in the Vermont landscape are three boards: The Vermont Maple Sugar Makers, America’s oldest agricultural group, The Vermont Maple Industry Council, dealing mostly with equipment, production and governance and The Vermont Maple Foundation, dealing with marketing and tourism. Sam’s father Sam Cutting III and now Sam IV have been involved with these groups for over 25 years.  In order to avoid duplication of efforts and conflicts of jurisdiction and focus the three groups merged together in 2012 to help the industry allow all voices to be heard.

    Over the past four years the group has been working on a new system of grading the syrup, bringing Vermont in line with the global market. At the January 2012 Farm Show annual meeting a member of the Senate Agricultural Committee presented the proposed color classes with descriptions of the grades of Vermont maple syrup.  After debate and approval in the Senate the motion went to the House and faced some stiff opposition. After a series of public hearings around the state the resolution is currently before the Vermont legislature and is scheduled to be voted on before the session ends. If passed Cutting feels it will, “enable Vermonters to be on a level playing field with the Canadian Maple Syrup producers and the international market. Very important to remember is that the Vermont name will still appear on the label as well as the guarantee of Vermont Pure. Our unique heritage is recognized around the world for quality.”

    Heritage is something that is near and dear to Sam Cutting IV’s heart. He lived in the home across the street from the Dakin Farm Store located in Ferrisburgh on the original farmstead of Timothy Dakin who built there in1792. “The home still has the hand dug basement, hand hewn beams and the bell on the roof that used to call all the workers to meals,” recalled Cutting. “When Timothy opened up the farm in 1796 to travelers seeking a place to spend the night he served them Vermont products including meat and syrup.”  Cutting is the second generation to the business which his father purchased from the two last Dakin descendants in 1960. “My father learned how to smoke meats in a wooden barrel and other traditional Vermont recipes from an old timer in Fair Haven,” shared Cutting. In 1980 I joined the business and we got our USDA Meat certification and the ability to ship beyond the state bounds. In 1981 we opened a second branch at the Champlain Mill and began to increase catalog sales tripling orders in a short time.”

    Embracing the Internet from its inception in 1995 Cutting IV has taken Dakin Farm to a networked organization that annually grosses approximately 60% or more of the company business from Internet sales. Cutting also linked Dakin Farm with Cabot Cheese in the past year and Dakin Farm now serves as the direct Internet link and mailing center for all Cabot products. During the busy season Dakin Farm’s Route Seven location will actually ship between 5,000-6,000 orders per day sending Vermont syrup, cheese, meat, jams and specialty products to locations around the world. While Cutting IV shares that bacon and one quart maple syrup are still the two top selling items for Dakin Farm he points to a growing shift to the darker maple syrups on a world market as a growing seller. With a new two million dollar office, call center and production building, Dakin Farm is continuing to grow and expand while Cutting continues the family legacy of involvement with Vermont maple and other products at a grassroots level, helping to bring together the people who make, package, ship and sell Vermont’s sweetest crop for a growing world market. Made in Vermont still does mean quality, purity and is our handshake to the world that the product reflects Vermont’s best practices and agricultural techniques.

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