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Going Grape: The Newest Member To An Everchanging Vermont Agricultural Landscape

photo provided Owner Chris Granstrom invites all from the curious to wine connoisseurs to visit Lincoln Peak Vineyards and taste some of Vermont’s award winning wines.

photo provided

photo provided Growing in the warmth of a Vermont summer, Lincoln Peak Vineyards grapes showcase the newest enterprise in the continuing landscape of Vermont agriculture.

photo provided Whether you come for a glass of wine or to see the process of winemaking in action, Chris Granstrom, his family and his staff encourage you to stop by Monday-Saturday.

Monday July 4, 2011

By Cookie Steponaitis

Let’s be honest. To a large portion of the population visions of vineyards take us to the Napa Valley of California or the winding roads of Tuscany, Italy. Still more of us might remember the wonderfully funny memory of early TV comedienne Lucille Ball barefoot and running in circles in a vat of grapes, her facial expressions transcending time. Yet, popping up on the Vermont landscape for the past five years has been a small, but increasingly unusual sight of grapevines, vineyard signs as we bear witness to a new and strong arrival in the Vermont agricultural landscape- Vermonters are going and growing grape!

Armed with intense curiosity and not a lot of knowledge about vineyards, this reporter spent a couple of hours with Addison County’s only vineyard open to the public, Lincoln Peak Vineyard and its owner Chris Granstrom to ask the obvious question of, “Why grapes in Vermont?” and what has happened to bring about this new passion and product to the Vermont landscape. Chris Granstrom is no stranger to agriculture and used to operate a strawberry business on the same land that is now the vineyard. He first became aware of the new grape varieties a few years ago and decided to get in at the ground level of a new agricultural endeavor. “The University of Minnesota has a breeding program that is developing grapes blended from the European grapes and the North American grapes to create plants hearty and specifically designed for the northern climate,” shared Chris Granstrom. “Using the old fashioned process of cross pollination, the University program is looking for ways to develop fruit plants specifically suited to growth and harvest in northern climates. Just like the new Honey Crisp Apple is attracting a lot of attention, so to is there beginning to be increased interest around these new grape plants.”

While Lincoln Peak Vineyard has only been open since 2008, the vineyard’s wines have already begun to earn international acclaim. Granstrom shared, “We are trying to develop a variety of wines. We offer dry and sweet wines and we are always trying to figure out our signature grapes and wines. So far our red Marquette wine has been our best seller and we have great interest in our Late Harvest Crescent, which is a sweet wine. At the recent International Cold Climate Wine Competition in St. Paul, Minnesota, Lincoln Peak Vineyard wines were put against over 300 wines from around the nation and earned best in show in 2009 for their red Marquette and Best in Show again in 2010 for their white Crescent wine.”

With twelve acres of vines, Granstrom and his staff are busy the year round harvesting, making wine, and caring for the vines themselves. While many people have this romantic notion of wine making being standing in the warm evening rays of a summer sun sipping on a glass of chilled wine, it is in reality, like any other agricultural venture a year round business. “Few realize,” explained Granstrom, “that it is farming, manufacturing and marketing. We handle all three.” While the state does have an organization to help the new vineyards called the Vermont Grape and Wine Council, there are still less than 100 Vermonters involved in this new product development. On June 7th, the group met in Montpelier for seminars, presentations and to talk amongst themselves about the challenges and rewards of growing vines and venturing into new agricultural territory.

While hearty and suited to Vermont’s climate, vineyard owners do have to watch for frost issues after the plants have began to grow the grapes in early May for a middle of September harvest. While Lincoln Peak Vineyard now starts, germinates and grows all of its own vines, Grandstrom and the staff spent most of the winter pruning and preparing the vines for the coming year of production.

Touring the grounds and facilities located at 142 River Road, just off Route Seven south in New Haven, Vermont, the visitor is treated to free wine tasting and a wonderful landscape that includes picnic areas, ponds, picturesque views and the intriguing site of row after row of growing vines. Open 11-5 Monday-Friday and 11-6 on Saturday, Lincoln Peak Vineyard also features special music events on the first Friday of each month where people can come free of charge, buy a glass of wine and enjoy music from a host of different genres and local talents.

When asked about his vision for Lincoln Peak Vineyard and the growth of the industry in the state, Granstrom was enthusiastic and optimistic. “The future of the Vermont vineyards will depend on a few things,” he remarked. “If more wineries spring up, it will offer tourists a chance to drive from location to location tasting and trying different local wines. As long as the new locations demonstrate good wines and successful farming practices, the future growth could be solid.”

While many locals still stop by and tell Granstrom that they miss the strawberries he used to grow, many are drawn back repeatedly by the uniqueness of the new crop on the land and the delightful atmosphere it offers people to sit, explore and try out some of Vermont’s newest crop! This reporter tried and even came home with a bottle of a wonderful Rose wine called Vermont Starlight! Absolutely incredible! So, come and meet owners Chris and Michaela Granstrom and see what all the fuss is about. You will find a family rooted in 24 years of Vermont agricultural tradition of wheat, corn, apples and strawberries and a now a new adventure. Already winning awards and creating a following of people from across Vermont and the country, Lincoln Peak Vineyard blends the hard work and skill of Vermont farmers with the beauty of the sun and the delights of the grape. As written so poetically on their bottled products, “The soul of the sun and the heart of the land, are captured and bottled, by the winemaker’s hand.” Come and see for yourself why the Granstrom’s and Addison County are going grape!

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